FAQ

Yes! Spray System Store is an authorized Fuji Spray dealer. We buy all our inventory direct from Fuji Spray.

We buy all of our inventory directly from Fuji Spray, so what you get is current equipment in Fuji packaging, with a clean, dated receipt Fuji will honor for warranty claims. Marketplace and third-party listings can't guarantee any of that — you don't always know how old the stock is, whether it's genuine, or whether you'll have proof of purchase if something goes wrong. If you'd like to confirm our status directly, Fuji will verify it at 1-800-650-0930.

Start with HVLP 101 — it covers what HVLP is, how it differs from other spray methods, and the basics of thinning, air caps and technique before you buy anything.

Stains, lacquers, shellac, urethanes, enamels, primers and latex paints — with the right turbine and air cap, an HVLP system handles most finishes used in woodworking, furniture, cabinetry, automotive refinishing and more. See Applications for specific use cases by trade.

We offer four turbine series from Fuji Spray:

D6: Fuji's flagship, 6-stage turbine. For full-time finishers and anyone spraying high-viscosity coatings — catalyzed lacquers, primers, urethanes — without thinning.

Q Platinum (Q4 and Q5): Quiet, professional-grade turbines in two power tiers. Best where noise matters — an attached garage, a basement shop, anywhere within earshot of other people.

Mini-Mite Platinum (3, 4 and 5): The same power as the Q Series in a lighter, more portable case. Best if the turbine travels to the work.

Semi-PRO 2: Fuji's entry point — a 2-stage turbine for stain, shellac, polyurethane and lacquer.

All Fuji Spray HVLP systems deliver professional results.

Need more help? See the HVLP Turbine Buying Guide or get in touch.

The D6 is Fuji's flagship — a 6-stage turbine with a Smart Select Control Panel that adjusts from 3 PSI to 11.5 PSI at the panel. It's the only Fuji turbine with two-stage filtration and a check filter light, and it's the only system rated to spray catalyzed lacquers, 2K topcoats and high-build primers without thinning. It also carries Fuji's longest warranty: 2+1 year on parts and labor.

See the D6 Systems page for full details.

They make the same power — a Q4 and a Mini-Mite 4 both generate 9.0 PSI, a Q5 and a Mini-Mite 5 both generate 9.5 PSI. The difference is quiet versus portable.

Take a Q Platinum if the turbine stays in one place and you spray anywhere sound carries — an attached garage, a basement, a shared shop. Take a Mini-Mite Platinum if the turbine travels to the job — it's markedly lighter and easier to store.

Yes. Every Fuji system is also sold as a turbine only, for anyone who already owns a compatible spray gun. And T-Model, M-Model and G-XPC guns are all sold on their own too, for anyone upgrading just the gun. Each series page lists the turbine-only option alongside the full kits.

Yes — T-Model and M-Model spray guns work with any Fuji Spray HVLP turbine. If you're upgrading a gun on an existing system, or building a spare, you don't need to match it to a specific turbine model.

The best HVLP spray gun for you depends on your project needs and setup.

Gravity-feed spray guns are ideal for smaller projects and offer great control with less waste, especially when spraying at lower pressures.

Bottom-feed spray guns are better for larger jobs or when you need to spray overhead, as they hold more material.

Fuji's T-Model, M-Model and G-XPC guns each come in one or both feed styles — see the T-Model, M-Model and G-XPC pages for specifics.

All Fuji Spray HVLP spray guns deliver professional results.

Need more help? See the HVLP Spray Gun Buying Guide or get in touch.

The T-Model spray guns feature an ergonomic stay-cool handle, a side-mounted fan pattern control knob, and a non-bleed design — making them ideal for professionals who want maximum control and comfort.

The M-Model spray guns are simpler, more affordable options typically included with Fuji’s entry-level systems. They use rear-mounted controls for fluid and fan adjustments and a non-bleed design.

All Fuji Spray HVLP spray guns deliver professional results.

Need more help? See the HVLP Spray Gun Buying Guide or get in touch.

Yes — the same M-Model gun body converts both ways with the corresponding conversion kit. Fuji’s 90-second video shows the full swap in both directions. Need the parts? Get in touch and we’ll sort you out.

Yes. Every 3M PPS 2.0 kit comes with lids, liners and a cup — for a turbine-driven gun you need the H/O (high output) cup, which has a pressurization port at the bottom. One trick: the lid won’t seat on the H/O cup until you pop the black ring off it — then liner in, lid on, collar tight, and you’re spraying.

Each gun takes its own adapter: the T75G uses the S2 (#MMM26003), the T70 and M-Model bottom-feed use the S18 (#MMM26054), and the G-XPC uses the S24 (#MMM26110). Running an M-Model gravity gun? Get in touch and we’ll point you to the right adapter.

Fuji’s one-minute install video shows the whole setup.

The right spray cap set depends on the type and viscosity of material you’re spraying. The below is a summary — you can get more detail from Fuji Spray’s Air Cap Quick Reference sheet — or watch Fuji’s two-minute video walkthrough of the guide.

Smaller sizes (0.8mm – 1.0mm) are ideal for fine detail work or thin materials like stains, dyes, and clear finishes.

Medium sizes (1.3mm – 1.5mm) are versatile and great for general-purpose use with lacquers, enamels, and polyurethane.

Larger sizes (1.8mm – 2.5mm) are best for thicker materials like latex, milk paint, and high-build primers.

Fuji Spray guns make swapping air cap sets quick and easy, so many users keep multiple sets on hand for different projects. T-Model and M-Model spray guns come with a 1.3 mm air cap set; the G-XPC comes with a 1.4 mm air cap set.

Yes — the Air Cap Size Guide goes size by size with more detail on material viscosity and finish quality than we can cover here.

Check out the Fuji Spray spray gun identification chart to determine which spray gun model you own.

Check out the PDFs on our downloads page.

Yes. As the turbine motor works, it produces heat that transfers to the turbine case. Allow your turbine 10–15 minutes of rest for every 45 minutes of continuous spraying.

You will typically need to refill your material cup after 20–30 minutes of continuous spraying. If you'd rather not walk back to the turbine each time, the D6 ships with an Easy Pause Remote built in, letting you pause and adjust from where you're working.

Allow the turbine to cool off after you are done spraying before removing the air hose.

Place your turbine on the floor 20 feet away from the spray area. Ensure the area is clean and the turbine can draw in a large volume of cool air. The air hose should be placed on the floor; avoid bends and coils as this can adversely affect the airflow. The distance is about motor life, not just dust: the further the turbine sits from the overspray, the less of it the filters and motor ever see — Fuji suggests 15–20 feet, or a different room entirely.

Four habits cover almost all of it:

1. Filters. Clean or replace turbine filters regularly and keep a spare set — they are the motor’s first line of defense.

2. Distance. Park the turbine 15–20 feet from the spray area, or in the next room. Less overspray reaching it means a motor that lasts.

3. Clean the gun after every session. The routine is in HVLP 101’s cleaning section — and lubricate the moving parts so nothing seizes in storage.

4. Watch the pressure tubes. A clogged tube stops the cup pressurizing; keeping a spare beats fighting to clean one.

Do those four and a Fuji system runs problem-free for years.

Almost always it’s dried material somewhere in the fluid path. Work through it in order:

1. Remove the fluid nozzle and inspect it for dried material.

2. Brush the fluid passages with solvent, then fill the cup with solvent and spray until it’s gone — that flushes the whole path.

3. Rinse the pickup-tube strainer; dried residue on the mesh blocks flow.

4. Check the pressure tube for material that has backed up into it — clean or replace the tube, and if material has reached past the check valve, replace tube and valve together.

5. Clean any dried material out of the nipples with a brush or a straightened paper clip.

Prevention is cheaper: strain your material before it goes in the cup, and match the air cap size to the viscosity. Fuji’s three-minute video walks the whole sequence.

Work down this list:

1. Check-valve direction. The tapered end is an arrow pointing the way the air should flow — toward the cup. Flat side to the gun’s tube, tapered side to the cup lid.

2. Nipples. Clear any dried material from the nipples on the gun and the cup before reinstalling the tube.

3. Threads and edges. Material built up on the cup or lid threads breaks the seal — clean them off.

4. The gasket. On bottom-feed cups, inspect the white lid gasket for splits or tears. Wipe it clean rather than soaking it — solvent makes gaskets swell and lose shape. (Nylon gravity cups have no gasket; just keep the threads clean.)

5. The brass tabs. If the tabs on the cup sides have bent upward, the lid can’t seat and the cup needs replacing.

Fuji’s three-minute video walks the whole diagnosis for both feed styles.

Fuji calls this a stuck pattern, and it almost always appears right after cleaning: the gun went back together with the front-end parts misaligned. On a T-Model, strip the front again (needle out, collar and air cap off, fluid nozzle off) and check that the divider’s indicating hole lines up with the 12 o’clock hole on the gun body, then reinstall the diffuser and seal so the locating pin seats in the same indexing hole. Reassemble and the fan control works again.

Fuji’s two-and-a-half-minute video shows the full sequence — worth watching once so the alignment makes sense before you have a gun in pieces.

Every full-size Fuji gun adjusts continuously from about a one-inch stripe to a fan roughly thirteen inches wide. Where the control sits depends on the gun: the T-Model uses its patented side-mounted knob, the G-XPC a side control that rolls like a motorcycle throttle, and the M-Model a rear dial — 12 and 3 o’clock for the extremes, with the diagonal positions giving everything between. Two universals: rotate the air cap to flip the pattern between vertical and horizontal, and whenever you change the fan, adjust the fluid control in tandem — wide fans starve without more material, narrow ones flood and drip. Fuji’s five-minute walkthrough demonstrates all three guns.

Every new Fuji Spray turbine carries a 2-year warranty on parts and labor. The D6 carries Fuji's longest warranty: 2+1 year — a year longer than the rest of the range. Refurb, Scratch & Dent units, including refurbished D6s, carry the full 2-year warranty as well.

The warranty is void if repairs are made by anyone other than Fuji Spray or an authorized agent, and claims require proof of purchase — if you bought from us, we can look that up by the email address you ordered with.

See the full Warranty page for how a claim works.

Please refer to the Fuji Spray Quick Reference Sheet for guidance to help with your air cap set selection — or watch Fuji’s two-minute video walkthrough of the guide. Fuji Spray advises to use your viscosity cup to measure the run time of your finish material. Needles, nozzles, and air caps are a matched set — be sure to swap all three when changing air cap sets.

Make sure the gun is completely clean and the fluid passages are clear before you start. Then remove the air cap and swap the fluid nozzle, needle and air cap together — the three are a matched set and change as one. The whole swap takes about two minutes; Fuji’s video shows the full change step by step.

The Spray Pattern is fan-shaped, so for a larger-sized fan keep your spray gun at a distance of 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) from the surface. Moving too close will increase bounce back while moving too far away can produce a dry spray.

Bounce back occurs when the airflow from the spray gun carries the finish away from the surface you’re spraying. The main causes of this will be holding the spray gun too close to the surface while spraying or using too much airflow for turbine spray guns and too much pressure for compressor-driven spray guns. The closer your spray gun to the surface is and the greater the airflow/pressure, the more bounce back you will observe.

Dry spray occurs when the material cures before it reaches the surface you’re spraying. The most common cause is holding your spray gun too far from the surface. For fast drying finishes, using too much air or too little finish for the airflow can result in a dry spray.

Use the pattern control to adjust the width of the fan to the desired size. Don’t forget to readjust the fluid control to ensure optimal coverage. When using a small round fan pattern to spray smaller surfaces, move closer to the target.

While HVLP Turbine Systems were designed for fine finishing, thousands of people have used the Fuji Spray to paint walls/ceiling and they are very happy with the results. For better results, choose a paint with lower viscosity and a higher tolerance for dilution. Before you begin, make sure to mask all adjacent surfaces. Thin your paint according to the air cap set you’re planning to use. See the air cap set quick reference sheet for guidelines.

You may need to add slowing agents/dry time extenders such as Floetrol to promote better leveling. It’s best to use bottom feed spray guns such as T70. It will hold more finish and the material cup can be readjusted to ensure proper material intake when spraying ceilings. The cup attached to your gun will require constant refills. When spraying large areas it is recommended to use a 2 Qt. pressure pot.

Often, yes — and there’s a simple way to know instead of guessing. Stir the material thoroughly, dunk the #4 Ford viscosity cup that came with your system, and time how long the stream takes to run out. Under 80 seconds and you’re sprayable. Undiluted latex can run 250 seconds or more — that’s a coating that needs thinning before it will atomize.

Dilute in stages with the reducer the manufacturer’s data sheet calls for: add 10%, re-test, then work in 5% steps until you’re under 80. Under-diluted material dries as orange peel; over-diluted brings micro-bubbles, craters, and runs or sags on vertical surfaces. Write down the run-out time and dilution that worked — the next project starts where this one finished.

Fuji’s two-and-a-half-minute video shows the whole method. And whatever the material: several thin wet coats beat one thick one, every time.

Yes, HVLP is ideal for this application — but you must follow a few general rules in order to achieve a good finish. If you intend on spraying latex emulsion paint (house paint) most of the time, please consider purchasing a more powerful turbine system like Mini-Mite 4, Q5 or D6.

To spray latex paints successfully, some rules must be adhered to. The latex should be ‘finish-quality’ (the best grade). For best results, a latex additive should be used. Additives or extenders are not for thinning — they are a ‘slowing agent’ that prevents the paint from drying too quickly, allowing it to level more smoothly.

You still must thin with water — upwards of 20% should be enough. A 1.5 mm – 1.8 mm air cap is preferred for adequate coverage on items like household trim, louvered doors, fireplace mantles and cabinets.

When spraying latex, turn the fluid control to limit the paint to a finer spray. This allows the air atomizing power to work on less paint at a time, improving the quality of atomization.

Spray the paint on ‘wet like a lake’ — it must be completely wet to flow out and look smooth. If you are only seeing droplets on the surface, open up the fluid knob for more product. HVLP is designed for fine finishing, including furniture, cabinets, automobiles and anywhere a Class A coating is applied.

If you already own airless equipment, an HVLP system complements it well — every family of spray systems has its place.

1. Use the 1.8 mm air cap set.
2. Thin the paint upwards of 20% with water.
3. Use additives if necessary.
4. Add the 6 ft whip hose to reduce air temperature through the gun.
5. Hold the gun no more than 8″ (20cm) away.
6. Apply a full, wet coat.

It’s the same answer as with any coating — yes, just so long as you thin it appropriately. Spraying of lacquer may be prohibited in your location; please check with your local jurisdiction.

Lacquer fumes are toxic and flammable (combustible), so adequate ventilation is absolutely necessary. Explosion-proof light switches, fixtures, and an extraction fan are a must.

Lacquers are formulated to dry extremely fast, and the heated air from a turbine motor can work against you. If you spray as you would with regular slow-drying paints, you may get a dry coat or orange-peel. A few things help:

1. Use the standard air cap set.
2. Apply at least 2 coats of lacquer sanding sealer first, and sand flat.
3. Thin the lacquer until it levels out on its own (unless local rules prevent it).
4. Add a lacquer slowing agent if dry time becomes a challenge.
5. Add a flexible whip hose to the standard 25 ft hose for cooler air at the gun.
6. Work close to the surface and apply a wet coat.

If you’ve done all of this and still see orange-peel, thin the lacquer further. Always use lacquer sanding sealer and thinner from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

The Q5 Platinum turbine is equipped with a Variable Speed Control Dial to adjust the speed of the motor. Turn the dial counter-clockwise to decrease speed and pressure, or clockwise to increase it.

After a filter change, the D6’s Check Filter light stays on until you recalibrate. With the fresh filter fitted, press buttons 3 and 4 on the front panel together — the turbine starts on its own, steps through all six stages, and shuts off when it’s done. The whole thing takes about a minute. Fuji’s one-minute walkthrough video shows it start to finish.

• Adjust the spray fan pattern to suit the object — moving closer than the maximum 8″ is fine for thin objects like spindles or railings sprayed with a round pattern.
• Thin only as much as necessary and no more — but the paint must still level out on its own once applied.
• Never hold the gun further than 8″ from the surface. Closer is better.
• Reduce air pressure at the control valve. Practice on scrap material first, and back off only until the finish starts to suffer.
• Engage the trigger on and off accurately — holding it down past the edge of the workpiece sends particles into the air that build up as mist in the room.
• Use an extraction fan and spray close to it. An explosion-proof fan may be required depending on the material and your local jurisdiction.

Fuji's High-Efficiency Air Caps, installed in every Fuji Spray spray gun, also cut overspray significantly.

Fuji HVLP spray guns are simple to use and easy to maintain! Cleaning your HVLP spray gun is as easy as 1-2-3. Simply follow the cleaning instructions and guidelines outlined in this YouTube video, or in this PDF Printable version. Now, you will ensure that your spray gun lasts for a very long time and that it will maintain its peak performance!

1. Remove the fluid knob at the rear of your spray gun.
2. Remove the needle spring.
3. Squeeze the trigger, this will push the needle assembly back far enough for you to grab with your fingers. Remove the needle assembly.
4. Remove the collar from the front of the spray gun.
5. Remove the air cap.
6. Use the supplied wrench in order to remove the fluid nozzle by turning counter-clockwise.

When re-assembling, please replace all these components in the reverse order: fluid nozzle, air cap, collar, needle assembly, needle spring, and lastly the fluid knob. It is a good idea to apply a small amount of lubrication to the needle shaft upon installation. This will help to allow the needle to move freely and seal the fluid nozzle effectively

For turbine service outside the warranty, refer to the Service Information section in your manual for a list of Fuji Spray approved service providers. Or get in touch with Fuji Spray directly — they can reach you by phone at +1 (800) 650-0930 or by email at support@fujispray.com.

Orders typically ship within 1–3 business days from Grand Rapids, Michigan. If your order is drop shipped from Fuji Spray, it could be 1–3 business days from their Buffalo, New York warehouse. During holiday or sale periods, it may take an extra day or two. Generally we pick orders in the morning, and tracking numbers are issued when orders are picked up by the courier.

We are based in the USA, so naturally we serve this country the best. We are willing to ship anywhere in the world, though recognize we stock only the 120V AC version in our warehouse. We are willing to explore other variants, get in touch.

Get in touch! Visit our Contact page for any information regarding your order! We’re happy to answer questions about Orders, Order Modifications, Shipping, Returns, and Cancellations.

See our Refund Policy for the full details on returns, exchanges and cancellations. If you're unsure whether your situation qualifies, get in touch and we'll walk you through it.

Phelps Refinishing, and the owner Roger, served as a Fuji Spray dealer for over two decades. Roger Phelps developed an illness not allowing him to work. His experience and customer service will be missed.

Sys Tim and Fuji Spray have stepped up to help take care of the customers and business that Roger and his team built. Phelps Refinishing shut down in early January 2025 and Spray System Store launched in the spring of that same year.